by Keith and Heather Nicol
On Wednesday,
August 28 we awoke to strong north winds and the forecast was calling for
rain in the afternoon so we decided to head immediately for Saddle Island which
is where most of the Basque whaling took place. The Basques arrived along the
coast of Labrador in the early 1500’s looking for cod and when they discovered
the abundance of whales they decided to harvest the whales for their oil. It
was a very valuable product and whale oil from Red Bay was used to light the
cities of Europe throughout the 1500’s. Saddle Island is just a short trip by
boat from the Visitor Interpretation Centre and Phil Bridle, a Parks Canada
interpreter, gave us an informative tour of the island. He told us that he was part of the early
archeological digs on the island and he even discovered a Basque ring that is
now on display in the visitor centre. “Most of the archeological work was done
on Saddle Island since it was not settled and researchers could uncover
artifacts more easily than they could in people’s gardens and lawns in the
community” Phil told us. He showed us many whale oil rendering stations called
tryworks and their adjacent cooperages where the barrels for holding the whale
oil were assembled. “After being
harpooned, the whales would be towed to the trywork stations where their
blubber would be stripped away and put into large copper pots where it would be
rendered to oil” Phil added.
Phil Bridle shows Heather some the of the highlights on Saddle Island |
By the end of the
tour the rain had started in earnest so we decided to head to the Parks Canada Visitor
Orientation Centre where we viewed an excellent film on how the site was
discovered and how both land and marine archeologists worked together to
uncover the story of Basques whaling in Red Bay. After lunch we returned to the
Visitor Centre where many of the artifacts are housed. We were also fortunate
to meet Cindy Gibbons, the site supervisor, who told us about how the site
became nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status. “It started way back in 2004
when Canada put forward a list of possible sites worthy of UNESCO World
Heritage recognition. In 2008 we began to compile the documents needed to support
the bid and it was submitted in January 2012. Finally in May, 2013 we found out
that it had been recommended and it became official in June, 2013” she told us
with a grin. Red Bay is now Canada’s
newest UNESCO World Heritage site and Cindy said that it already seems to be
attracting more visitors. The Parks Canada Visitor sites will be open until
September, 27, 2013 and for more information see: http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/nl/redbay/index.aspx
Cindy Gibbons (right) and Heather chat in the Red Bay Visitor Orientation Centre which overlooks the harbour |
We also enjoyed seeing the Right Whale
Exhibit in the Town Hall in Red Bay. The skeleton displayed in the exhibit was
one of those killed by the Basques several centuries ago. That night we stayed
at another Whaler's Station Cabin -The Loft (www.redbaywhalers.ca) and
it had a fine view overlooking the harbour.
We stayed at The Loft which gives a great view of the harbour and Saddle Island |
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