by Keith and Heather Nicol
Campbell River is fortunate to have a varied collection of scenic islands in its vicinity as well as a rich marine ecosystem with many types of whales, seals, sea lions and various sea birds. In the past we have taken whale watching tours in this area but on June 1 we opted for a different experience and joined the Campbell River Museum for a tour of some of Desolation Sound with a stop at historic Refuge Cove on
West Redonda Island. This tour is a partnership with the museum and Campbell River Whale Watching and Adventure Tours (CRWW) which is an award winning boat tour company based in Campbell River
(https://campbellriverwhalewat
for other trips into various parts of the Discovery Islands (https://crmuseum.ca/)These trips book up quickly so check out their offerings and plan ahead so you don't miss out.
Boarding the Tenacious III
We had nice sunny weather for our 4 hour afternoon trip but we also had strong outflow NW winds which were forecast to gust to 25 knots . Our Captain told us that anyone sitting in the upper deck might get wet especially for the first part of the trip. Fortunately there was room for everyone in the enclosed cabin of the Tenacious III .That is where our museum guide Sandra Mulligan provided much of the
information about what we were seeing from a historical perspective. Most of the 20 passengers were from the local area including Nanoose Bay, Royston, Comox and Courtenay but we did have one person from Texas who was here to escape the heat of the southern US. Sandra gave us reading lists about the areas we would visit as well as a map which she kept updating while the afternoon unfolded.
Our Museum Host - Sandra - provided lots of information about the history of this area
After leaving Campbell River our tour passed by the southern end of Quadra Island and Sandra pointed out Cape Mudge and told us to be sure to visit the First Nations Nuyumbalees Cultural Centre there. Our first stop was at Twin Islands which is just off of Cortes Island and we
got a chance to see a historic house/lodge with a fascinating history .
According to Sandra it was initially built by Americans Dick and Ethel
Andrews in 1936. Apparently they had made lots of money in Japan but
could see hostilities on the horizon so wanted an out of the way place
with arable land, fishing, fresh water and a good moorage. Twin Islands is certainly out of the way since it is an island with no
road access!! Sandra thought at one time it was the most expensive house
in all of BC!! The lodge has since changed hands a couple of
times and the current owner is Mark Torrance who is an entrepreneur from Seattle.
Visiting historic Refuge Cove-was a real highlight
Our next stop was Refuge Cove on West Redonda Island which has been a
focal point in this area since 1890 when a store was first opened. We
were especially keen to see Refuge Cove since we had visited here in the
late 1970's when friends from Vancouver moved to help run the historic
store. At that time Bonnie and Colin Robertson had just given birth to
Lucy and we visited them for several days in the
spring of 1979. And who should we meet in the store on this trip but
Lucy who now runs the store since her parents have retired! Refuge Cove
is a hidden gem and the only way to get here is by boat.
Heather and Lucy at the store in Refuge Cove
After an enjoyable reunion with Lucy and a story from Sandra about a
long time Refuge Cove resident with a cougar in his house we then headed
across Desolation Sound to Portage Cove and then to Galley Bay. Both
have a long history of settlement and at one time held a much larger
population than they do now. But with the boom and bust of logging and
fishing along this coast the area now mainly is used by summer
cottagers. Desolation Sound got its name from Capt George Vancouver in
1792 since he thought it looked "gloomy and forlorn" but now it is a
very popular destination for boaters in the summer. Sandra told us
about the parties people used to hold in the houses in Galley Bay that
would attract people from Cortes Island and Refuge Cove. "They would row
over, have a grand party and then row back the next day. A distance of
10-15 km one way!" But now it was time to head back to Campbell River so
we backtracked leaving behind scenic Desolation Sound with its snow
capped mountains . We reflected on the varied human history that has
lived along these rocky islands and wooded hillsides that are mostly
only accessible by boat. A big thanks to Sandra and the crew for giving
us a glimpse of the fascinating history found along these shores.
Although we had travelled over 100 km on our trip we realized we had
just scratched the surface of seeing the many islands and waterways that
are found in the Discovery
Islands. We can't wait to check out another Campbell River Museum Boat Tour next year. Here is a short video of our trip. Check it out